With Portugal’s prices creeping up and the Algarve feeling busier by the week, a different coastline is taking the spotlight. Locals call it the Riviera; wanderers have started calling it “the Portugal of the Balkans” — a run of shining bays, hilltop pines and grilled-fish lunches that ring in at **half the cost**.
The first light slides over Himarë’s horseshoe bay, catching the white hulls and the soft clang of moorings. A baker lifts a metal tray of byrek to the window; steam fogs the glass; the smell of spinach and butter floats into the street. A London couple lean on the promenade rail, coffee in hand, staring at water as crisp as cut glass, whispering about how yesterday’s feast cost less than a midweek takeaway at home. A fisherman unspools line, the nylon hissing; a bus coughs and grinds into gear. Only later does the catch reveal itself.
Where ‘Portugal energy’ meets Balkan soul
The Albanian Riviera wears the same easy charm that lured Brits to the Algarve a generation ago. Terraced hills tumble into bays, white pebble shelves vanish into turquoise, and sleepy seaside towns stretch out with a promenade and a square. You get stone alleys, flowering oleander, the clink of cutlery on ceramic, and a plate of grilled sea bream that tastes like sunshine.
Drive the SH8 coastal road and you’ll see why people are whispering about it. The Llogara Pass opens like a theatre curtain onto the **Adriatic-meets-Ionian** blue, with switchbacks that feel cinematic rather than stressful. Pull off for Jale’s glassy cove, stretch out at Dhërmi’s long strand, and finish at Ksamil, where the bays look filtered even when they’re not. It’s the kind of coast that makes you take longer breaths.
This isn’t copy-paste Algarve, and that’s the point. The vibe blends Mediterranean ease with a Balkan heartbeat: late meals, family-run guesthouses, old men playing dominoes beneath pines. English drifts through café chatter. Prices anchor the decision: sunbeds commonly 800–1,200 lek (£6–£9), cold beer from £1.50, seafood for two often under £30. Card machines exist, but cash still buys smiles. It feels familiar enough to relax into — and fresh enough to feel like you’ve beaten the crowds.
How British travellers are making it work
The clever route starts on water. Fly to Corfu, hop the fast ferry across, and in about 35 minutes you step onto the quay at Sarandë, eyes level with the ion-blue bay and beach cafés. Or swing via Tirana, grab a compact hire car, and trace the SH8 south through the pines and viewpoints that will fill your camera roll until September. Base yourself in Himarë if you like local rhythm, Dhërmi if you like a little sparkle, and Ksamil if your heart wants lagoon-blue coves.
Early summer is king here — late May into June — with warm seas and room to breathe. September is the sweet exhale, warm enough for swims, gentle on the wallet. Don’t try to collect beaches like stamps; pick two or three and let days stretch. Keep small notes of lek for beach clubs and bakeries. Let’s be honest: no one actually does that every day. Your holiday doesn’t need to be a spreadsheet to be brilliant.
On a Tuesday in Jale I watched a dad from Leeds haggle, gently, for two loungers and an umbrella. He laughed at the price, surprised in a good way. The café behind him was setting out plates of octopus and village salad, the breeze carrying oregano.
“It’s like the Algarve 20 years ago,” he said, grinning, “with change from a twenty.”
If you want the quick hits, here’s a tiny cheat-sheet:
- Ksamil: sugar-sand coves and island swims.
- Himarë: promenade life, family-friendly pace.
- Dhërmi/Drymades: bigger beach, sociable evenings.
- Gjipe Beach: canyon walk-in, wild and photogenic.
- Llogara Pass: best road views; bring layers.
- Porto Palermo: castle on a headland, quiet water.
The money-and-sense of it all
Albania’s coastal boom is new enough that you’re still catching it mid-rise. That means family-run stays, prices pinned low by competition, and a currency — the lek — that stretches a UK holiday budget. You feel it in everyday choices: espresso around 120 lek, bakery lunches for pocket change, a sea-view room that doesn’t bruise your credit card. It’s not a fairy tale; it’s a moment in time.
There’s a rhythm to costs. Hire cars often £25–£40 a day if you book early. Boat taxis to hidden coves from £8–£15 per person. Long-distance buses — furgons — still cheap and cheerful, though not always punctual. UK travellers can visit visa-free for short stays, and flights into Tirana or Corfu keep dipping under £100 return in sales. You’ll pay cash more than you think, tap to pay in towns, and smile when the bill arrives.
Every rising coast has wrinkles. August is busy and loud in beach clubs near Sarandë. Some roads feel narrow, and signage can be creative. Progress builds fast — a half-finished hotel next to a perfect cove — which is both the charm and the compromise. Navigate with patience and you’ll find the balance. The payoff is that first quiet swim at 9am when the bay belongs to you and the only sound is your breath and the soft lick of water — *salt on your lips*.
Common mistakes Brits make — and the easy fixes
Go light and early. Book your first two nights, then let the rest flex around the weather and the beaches you like. Keep a small stash of cash for beach parking and ferries; 100–200 lek coins are gold dust for loungers. If you’re driving the SH8, set off in the morning, stop often, and treat the Llogara hairpins like a scenic glide, not a race. Download offline maps and an eSIM before you land.
Don’t wing August accommodation on the hottest weekends. Bring reef-friendly sandals; pebbly shores look soft until your toes meet them. Tipping sits around 5–10% in restaurants, usually rounded, and locals will tell you when it’s too much. We’ve all had that moment when a “secret beach” turns out to be everyone’s favourite on Instagram. Smile, pivot, and walk ten minutes around the headland. The quiet is often one cove away.
Some British habits don’t translate perfectly, and that’s fine. Beach clubs often rent by row; the front costs more, the back still sees the same sea.
“You won’t feel hustled here,” says Arjan, who runs a small guesthouse above Himarë. “People come for the water, stay for the welcome.”
Think like a local for the simple wins:
- Shop markets early; the peaches are cold from dawn air.
- Eat your biggest meal at lunch; seafood lands fresh.
- Swim before 11, nap at 3, wander at golden hour.
- Carry a light throw; evening breezes drift off the pass.
The bigger picture: why this coast sticks with you
Places that get under your skin rarely announce themselves. This coast works because it gives you time: time to watch a ferry slide across a blue line, time to count the cicadas, time to realise you haven’t opened email in three days. It’s value, yes, but also pace. Albania is welcoming without being performative, casual without being careless, and it leaves you with a taste — grilled lemon, thyme, sea — that feels like a promise to return. Call it the “Portugal of the Balkans” if that helps; the truth is simpler. It’s a string of bays that make ordinary life feel far away.
| Point clé | Détail | Intérêt pour le lecteur |
|---|---|---|
| Best months | Late May–June and September for warm seas, softer prices | Fewer crowds, better value, lovelier swims |
| Getting there | Fly to Corfu + ferry to Sarandë, or fly to Tirana + SH8 coastal drive | Flex routes to suit budget and time |
| Costs snapshot | Sunbeds £6–£9, seafood for two often under £30, car hire £25–£40/day | Plan a week that feels indulgent without overspend |
FAQ :
- Is it really cheaper than Portugal?In most beach towns, yes. Daily costs for sunbeds, meals and rooms commonly land 30–50% below popular Algarve resorts, especially outside August.
- Do I need a visa as a UK traveller?UK passport holders can visit visa-free for short stays. Carry a passport with at least six months’ validity and check airline requirements.
- Cards or cash — what works?Both. Cards are widely accepted in towns and hotels, but cash (lek) is handy for beach clubs, parking and small cafés. ATMs are common.
- Is driving the SH8 difficult?It’s scenic and safe if you take it steady. Start in daylight, expect bends over the Llogara Pass, pull into viewpoints, and don’t rush.
- Where should I base myself?Himarë for an easy, local feel; Dhërmi/Drymades for longer beaches and buzz; Ksamil for lagoon-blue coves and island swims. Mix two if you have a week.
