A quiet shift in home power is gaining unexpected momentum.
Across older homes, rentals and hastily improvised home offices, a new approach is turning cluttered corners into calm, practical spaces. It brings outlets to where you actually use devices, trims cable chaos and avoids turning the lounge into a building site.
What is actually replacing the power strip
The change centres on surface-mounted sockets and trunking. Instead of chasing channels into plaster, you fix a shallow box onto the wall, ceiling or beam, then run cables in neat moulding that sits on the surface. The cover clicks on, hides the run and can match your paint or skirting. You gain sockets where you need them, not where the builder guessed years ago.
It is a direct alternative to floor-level power strips. Children get tamper-resistant shutters. You can add a local switch to isolate a single device. Some wall blocks include surge protection. Finishes range from clean white to brushed metal and wood effects, so the new run fades into the background instead of shouting for attention.
More sockets, less dust: add outlets without opening walls, keep the layout flexible and reclaim floor space from cable nests.
How the kit works day to day
On a smooth surface, adhesive strips or beads hold the trunking; on rougher walls, short screws do the job. Matching corners, tees and end caps give a tidy result. The last step clips the front plate on and snaps the socket module into place. If the furniture moves later, you can extend the run or shift the box.
A little planning pays off. Choose a route that looks natural, often along the skirting or just above the worktop. Check that doors, radiators and curtains do not interfere. For older walls, test a small patch before committing to adhesive.
Numbers that matter: ratings, runs and limits
Good electrics start with clear limits. In France, the NF C 15 100 framework is widely followed: a 1.5 mm² radial protected at 16 A can feed up to eight sockets; a 2.5 mm² radial at 20 A can feed up to twelve. That structure keeps loads in check and reduces overheating risks.
In the UK, many homes use a 32 A ring final circuit in 2.5 mm² cable, or a fused spur at 13 A off that circuit. Surface-mounted extensions are usually fed by a fused spur or a dedicated radial. The safe number of outlets depends on the protective device, the cable size and the expected loads. When in doubt, have an electrician confirm that earthing, RCD protection and cable routes meet BS 7671 in your area.
Think in loads, not just sockets: a TV wall might draw 300–600 W, while a fan heater hits 2,000 W on its own.
- 16 A radial, 1.5 mm²: up to 8 outlets for light loads and mixed media kits.
- 20 A radial, 2.5 mm²: up to 12 outlets where you expect work-from-home gear.
- 13 A fused spur: safe for a compact media corner or a small office cluster.
- Avoid daisy-chaining strips. Replace them with a single wall-mounted block.
Features that make life easier
Modern modules go beyond simple sockets. USB‑C ports built into the faceplate can deliver 20–45 W for phones and tablets without a plug‑top charger. Some plates combine USB‑C and USB‑A to cover older cables. For lighting, a small wall dimmer can sit in the same surface box, keeping controls close to where you sit.
Media and desk areas benefit from multi-gang wall blocks. Four to six sockets in one tidy cluster beat a jumble of plastic strips underfoot. Add a surge-protected module to shield your TV, console and router from spikes.
Smart control without carving walls
Battery-powered wireless switches let you turn lamps or smart plugs on and off from anywhere on the wall. They stick, lift and restick without leaving scars. Paired with a hub or directly to smart sockets, they solve the age-old problem of lights with no convenient switch.
Wet or rough spaces
Workshops, garages and patios call for sealed enclosures. IP‑rated surface boxes keep dust and splashes out. Look for rubber gaskets and robust covers that latch securely. In humid rooms, use trunking and components marked for the zone and avoid routes where condensation runs.
Costs, time and the mess you avoid
Expect around 45–90 minutes for a first tidy run with two to four outlets, including careful measuring. A metre of slim trunking costs roughly £5–£10. A decent double surface socket runs £8–£20. A four‑gang wall block is typically £25–£60. Surge protected versions add £20–£40. Adhesive pads are a few pounds; a small box of screws and wall plugs is similar. The clean‑up is minimal: offcuts and backing paper, not plaster dust.
| Use case | What to fit | Typical extras |
|---|---|---|
| TV wall and console | 4–6 gang wall block | Surge module, 2x USB‑C, cable brush plate |
| Home office desk | 3–4 sockets near desktop | USB‑C 45 W, switch for monitor, under‑desk trunking |
| Rented bedroom | 2 sockets by bedside | Adhesive trunking, gentle route along skirting |
| Garage bench | IP‑rated double socket | RCD protection, screw‑fixed trunking |
Safety and good practice
Keep cable routes vertical or horizontal from the outlet so future you can avoid drilling into them. Do not bury surface trunking behind heavy furniture that runs hot. In children’s rooms, choose screw‑mounted parts, add socket shutters and keep routes out of reach where possible. Test the RCD after work. Label the new circuit or fused spur clearly at the consumer unit.
If you are extending an existing circuit, match conductor size and protective device. Respect the maximum number of outlets per run. Where a route crosses a doorway, use a protective strip or go up and over the frame. Adhesives can dry out on dusty paint or textured plaster; in those cases, use screws.
A quick planning example you can copy
Living room media corner: start from a fused spur near the skirting. Run 2.5 mm² cable in 25 mm trunking for 1.8 m to the TV position. Fit a four‑gang wall block at a comfortable height behind the screen, plus a faceplate with two USB‑C ports at 45 W for a streaming stick and tablet. Total parts cost lands around £60–£90. Measured load sits under 600 W for TV, console and soundbar, which is well within a 13 A spur.
Extra angles worth weighing up
Energy and wear: switchable faceplates let you cut power to standby‑hungry gear. That trims a few watts day and night and reduces heat build‑up behind cabinets. Surge protection matters in areas prone to storms or flaky supply; it is cheap insurance for routers, smart speakers and TVs. If you plan to add a heater or high‑draw tools, put them on a separate circuit sized for the job.
Renters’ playbook: use adhesive trunking on clean, sound paint and run along existing lines such as skirting and corners. Keep screw holes to a minimum and fill them neatly when you leave. Photograph the route before and after, and confirm with your landlord where a fused spur is acceptable. A careful, reversible install can upgrade comfort without risking your deposit.
