London’s 10 old-school Italian spots ranked: which will you trust for £12 plates and 4am pasta?

Prices rise, yet the faithful still queue.

Across the capital, a handful of veteran trattorias are weathering rent hikes, menu inflation and restless diners. Some stay giddy and neon-lit. Others lean on white linen and memories. Here’s the state of London’s old-school Italians right now — who’s thriving, who’s charging, and where your money still buys warmth as well as dinner.

What makes an old-school Italian

Think checked cloths, generous portions and a menu that reads like a family photo album. The cooking leans simple. Sauces cling, not pose. Wine lists favour crowd-pleasers. Service feels familial, occasionally theatrical. And prices, at the best of them, still show mercy.

Yes, you can still eat well in London for under £20 — if you know where to book.

• Menus that list spaghetti, tagliatelle, veal Milanese and tiramisu without ceremony.
• Servers who know your second drink before you order it.
• Tables turned by laughter, not timers.
• House wines poured in sensible glasses, not goblets built for selfies.

The picks: 10 stalwarts still setting the pace

Il Giardino, Peckham

Soft-yellow frontage, green shutters and a room scented with old pine set the tone. Pasta stays the move here, with silky, cream-softened sauces and proper chilli heat. A chicken–ham–pea tagliatelle channels London–Italian nostalgia without irony. Mains sit largely under £20, which now reads like a small miracle in SE15.

Order pasta and relax — the prices are gentle, the mood gentler.

Ciao Bella, Bloomsbury

Part neighbourhood canteen, part postcard from 1983. Blue tablecloths, film-star portraits and waiters with an easy wink. The food plays the hits — salmon tagliatelle, spaghetti and meatballs, grilled sea bass — while portions remain generous. It draws crowds because the room hums as loudly as the chatter on Lamb’s Conduit Street.

La Famiglia, Chelsea

A Chelsea fixture since 1966 with Tuscan roots and a loyal roll call of famous faces. Mozzarella in carrozza lands with proper crunch; vitello tonnato and vongole are polished, priced to match their postcode. A place for anniversaries, not midweek scrimping, and for service that runs like a well-drilled brigade.

O’Sole Mio, Pimlico

A defiantly retro trattoria where pepper mills arrive like props and plates wear parsley confetti. Prices keep faith with locals, with only the seafood platter straying past £20. Bolognese comforts. Baked cannelloni brings steam and satisfaction. The room glows with the sort of warmth that can’t be faked.

Giuseppe’s Place, Borough

Two venues in one: sandwich bar at street level, trattoria-disco beneath. After dinner, the basement flips into a late-night party with a glitterball and a loyal crowd.

Open until 4am — the rare London dining room that feeds both night workers and night owls.

Carbonara arrives rich and unapologetic; lobster ravioli and amatriciana keep the regulars happy. Five minutes from London Bridge if you’re dodging a chain on the concourse.

Da Maria, Notting Hill

A west London stalwart since 1980, lined with Amalfi-bright murals and run with genuine affection. Arancini can slip in under a fiver; meatballs with roast potatoes hover around £12. Pasta is cooked with care, prosecco flows, and the welcome feels like a coat on a cold day.

Vasco and Piero’s Pavilion, Soho

Forced from its long-time Poland Street home, reborn nearby and still resolutely itself. Handmade tortellini, octopus carpaccio and Umbrian truffles signal intent. White linen meets candlelit negronis. The mantra remains clear: keep the craft, resist the fad. Prices reflect the polish.

Bagatti’s, Croydon

Family-run since 1990 and imbued with suburban generosity. The energy of the room matters as much as the plate. Zucchini fritti, calamari and a rosy lamb rack do the heavy lifting. South End has seen shinier openings come and go; this one holds the line.

Trevi, Highbury and Islington

Serving since 1962, when pasta in a tin still had a place on British shelves. Today you’ll find sea bass with capers and lemon, gnocchi with pesto and a seafood risotto that respects simplicity. Prices often sneak in under £20 before wine, which keeps locals loyal.

Sixty-plus years in service and still sending out plates that speak softly and carry flavour.

Il Portico, Kensington

A family concern since 1967 and one of the city’s most refined traditional Italians. Expect Barolo and valpolicella, game in season, and osso buco that can hush a table. Menus change with the market, and prices mirror the ambition. Linen on the tables, depth in the sauces.

One-page cheat sheet

How to eat like a regular without overspending

Book early or go late. Early services bring calmer rooms and sometimes softer pricing. Share antipasti to sample more for less. Ask for carafes rather than premium bottles. House reds often flatter rich sauces better than pricier picks. Skip side salads that add cost but little joy; choose greens with garlic or roast potatoes you’ll remember.

Watch the board. Daily specials can be a treat, yet they often track higher than the print menu. If you plan dessert, gauge portion size on neighbouring tables and commit to one spoon between two. Coffee at the end still marks the true finale of a classic Italian meal; it also eases the bill.

Trattoria, osteria, ristorante: what the sign above the door suggests

These labels signal tone rather than an iron rule. Trattoria implies homely dishes, a lively room and pricing that aims for repeat visits. Osteria hints at simplicity and a shorter menu, sometimes with regional focus. Ristorante usually promises more formality, a longer wine list and a bill that reflects polish. London muddles these lines, yet the spirit remains a useful guide when you pick a table.

Late-night lifelines and regional clues

If you work shifts or eat after shows, note the few kitchens still going past midnight. Giuseppe’s stands out with a 4am close that’s rare in central London. Regional markers can steer ordering: Tuscan-leaning menus reward a scan for beans, steaks and game; Neapolitan kitchens shine with tomatoes, seafood and fried snacks. Spot those cues and your choices improve fast.

Why this matters to your wallet

London’s Italian old guard now splits into two camps: comfort-first value and linen-led ceremony.

Both serve a purpose. On a Tuesday, you want Il Giardino’s ease or Trevi’s steady hand. On a birthday, Il Portico or Vasco and Piero’s brings occasion and a cellar that means business. The trick lies in matching mood to room. Do that, and £12 plates or £40 mains each feel like money well spent rather than money lost.