The last ten days of October look sleepy, yet the ground holds summer’s warmth and daylight still carries plenty of punch. Market gardeners say this window rewards calm hands and bold plans, giving you faster spring growth without the scramble of March.
Why late October sowing changes everything
Soils in much of the UK remain above 6–8°C at this point in the year, especially after a mild autumn. That reserve of heat drives slow but steady germination in hardy crops. Roots establish before deep winter, then plants stall during the coldest weeks and surge once February sun returns.
Use the final 7–10 days of October to bank a 3–5 week head start. Your March looks different when roots are already working.
Moisture is dependable, weeds grow more slowly, and pests move less. Beds stay busy rather than bare, and spring jobs become staggered. That balance matters when every hour counts in early season.
What growers warn against
- Match the crop to your microclimate; round-seeded peas cope, wrinkled types sulk.
- Avoid deep digging now; preserve soil structure and beneficial life near the surface.
- Pick winter-suited varieties; tender strains collapse at the first hard frost.
- Plan rotation; don’t follow onions with garlic, or brassicas with radish, on tired ground.
- Protect from excess wet; cold and waterlogging rot seeds long before frost does.
The winners to sow now
Garlic, lamb’s lettuce and winter radishes that shrug off cold
Garlic cloves settle beautifully in late October. Push each clove 3–5 cm deep, 10–15 cm apart, in free-draining ground. Rooting begins quickly while soils are still warm, anchoring plants for winter blows. Expect fat bulbs by June if you keep beds weed-free and well mulched.
Lamb’s lettuce (mâche) likes a light touch. Rake a crumbly surface, scatter seed thinly, and barely cover. A fleece layer keeps pigeons off and holds an extra degree or two on chilly nights. You can cut small rosettes from February, with re-growth giving second pickings.
Winter radishes, often ignored, pay back fast. Sow 1–1.5 cm deep in light soil and thin to about 10 cm. Their roots sit tight through cold snaps, then bulk rapidly when daylight strengthens. Slice into early salads while others still queue at the veg aisle.
Spinach and round peas that wake early
Winter spinach craves cool air and rich earth. Drill 2 cm deep in rows, keep spacing generous, and mulch lightly with leaves. In a British winter it can survive down to around -6°C under fleece. First tender leaves arrive in March, with thicker pickings through April.
Round-seeded peas (smooth, hard seed) suit cold starts. Sow 5 cm deep to foil mice and cushion frost. Site away from wind eddies, and use twiggy sticks or mesh as low support. The roots establish quietly, then shoots burst when temperatures edge up, giving pods as early as late April in the South.
Three smart extras for late October
- Broad beans (Aquadulce-type): stout, hardy and productive in May. Space well for airflow.
- Spring onions: sow thinly under fleece for sharp, slim stems from early April.
- Green cover: a quick rye/vetch mix protects soil, feeds life and suppresses weeds.
| Crop | Sowing depth | Spacing | Minimum soil temp | Protection tip | Days gained |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Garlic (cloves) | 3–5 cm | 10–15 cm | ≈ 3–5°C | Mulch 3 cm; avoid waterlogging | 20–30 |
| Lamb’s lettuce | 0.5 cm | Broadcast/thin to 5 cm | ≈ 5°C | 17 g/m² fleece against birds | 20–30 |
| Winter radish | 1–1.5 cm | 10 cm | ≈ 5°C | Keep mulch off crowns | 20–30 |
| Spinach (winter) | 2 cm | 25–30 cm rows | ≈ 2–4°C | Fleece lifts by 2–3°C | 30–40 |
| Peas (round seed) | 5 cm | 5–8 cm | ≈ 4°C | Wire mesh vs rodents | 21–35 |
| Broad beans | 5–7 cm | 20–25 cm | ≈ 2–4°C | Windbreak nets in exposed sites | 28–42 |
| Spring onions | 1 cm | Thin to 3–4 cm | ≈ 5–6°C | Keep fleece ventilated | 14–28 |
Prepare and protect for winter’s whims
Gentle soil work speeds spring growth
Open the surface with a fork or rake rather than turning whole spits. Keep structure intact, and let worms and roots do the mixing. Add a light layer of garden compost to feed microbes and hold moisture. Raised beds drain better, which is priceless in a wet winter.
Mulch and moisture management that actually works
Lay 2–3 cm of chopped leaves, straw or fine woodiness around, not on, seed lines. That shield buffers frost, slows erosion and softens downpours. In mild spells, lift fleece ends for airflow and to discourage slugs. Water only when the top 2–3 cm of soil dries; saturated beds chill rapidly and suffocate seed.
A 3–5 cm mulch plus light fleece is worth roughly 2–4°C of protection and fewer winter weeds.
Timing, routine checks and what to avoid
Spacing, covering, protecting: the three-gesture routine
- Give room: crowding breeds mildew and weak roots. Wider rows dry faster after rain.
- Cover correctly: light cover for light-lovers like lamb’s lettuce; proper depth for garlic and spinach.
- Protect smartly: fleece for frost, low tunnels for wind, copper tape or traps where slugs rule.
From November to February: small actions, big pay-off
Check beds every two weeks. Remove weeds while they’re tiny. Re-tension fleece before gales. Brush heavy leaves off rows after storms so seedlings aren’t smothered. Resist daily watering; root zone damp, not soggy, is the target. Vent plastic on mild days to prevent grey mould. If mice visit, set traps or net pea drills at sowing.
What to expect: earlier plates and lively surprises
Well-timed late-October sowings commonly pull harvests forward by a month. Lamb’s lettuce cuts begin in February. Early spinach and the first winter radishes arrive in March. Broad beans flower as soon as bees stir. Pods of round-seeded peas follow in late April or May, depending on latitude. Garlic tops swell fast once May warms, with bulbs lifted in June or early July.
You can sit down to a homegrown salad 30–40 days earlier and free beds sooner for your main-crop plans.
Wildlife often joins in: frogs nestle under leaf mulch, ground beetles patrol for slugs, and self-sown peas from a dropped pod can gift an unexpected row. These signals point to living soil and steady habit, not chance luck.
Extra pointers that pay off
Adjust timing by region. Southern England can sow right to 31 October in a mild year; the Midlands usually to around the 25th; the North and lowland Scotland often need a week’s head start. In cold pockets or at altitude, use cloches or a 30 g/m² fleece for a safer margin.
Variety choice steers outcomes. Pick round-seeded peas, “Aquadulce”-type broad beans, winter spinach lines, and hard-neck or soft-neck garlic suited to your locale. Watch for bolting in a very mild winter; steady moisture and light shade netting in late February can hold plants in leaf rather than seed.
If you like numbers, the money side stacks up. A 3 m row of lamb’s lettuce yields roughly 600–800 g by March, often £8–£12 at retail prices. Early spinach can match that again, while spring onions from an autumn line save another £3–£5. The outlay is minimal: seed, a sheet of fleece, and a couple of hours now.
For heavy, wet soils, shift late-October sowings into shallow-raised drills or modules under cover, then plant out in brief dry windows. You get the same head start with less risk of rot. Keep slug pressure low by lifting mulch off radish rows and using wool pellets or simple beer traps at the edges.
